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Peak Mountain 3

Last Chance

FA Rocky Keeler, Rick Weinert, 1970
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

 The ”500 ft” length includes finishing on Catharsis. Basically a two pitch variation to the start of Catharsis, I have always found it more pleasant to avoid the first “ Boulder problem” move by joining the route a bit higher up.P1 -  Starting as described below in “1” - After thrashing through the bushes you reach a flat area, climb the steep head wall above at a good crack (good pro but still potentially a bad fall onto a ledge) Above the short head wall is another flat ledge. (Which is where you’ll be if you take “start #2) Climb the obvious and pretty crack/ flake to its top and a gear belay.  Start 1 5.7/5.7+, Start 2 5.6  about 100-130 ft    Lawyer/Hass reports a fixed belay, probably  correct, as even years ago when I last did the route there was a fixed sling.P2 - Lawyer/Hass say “straight up” but I remember stepping left for a couple of feet and then climbing up the unprotected slab ( maybe a small TCU somewhere along the way...over left a bit). Cross over the diagonally-rising crack and join Catharsis about 2/3rds of the way up its second pitch. Continue to the gear belay below the flake/overlap (where the birch tree used to be) 200(?) ft  5.6R  You might have to belay lower.P3 - Finish on Catharsis. 

Location

Find the start of Catharsis, then:1) If you want to do the route as usually described, while still on ”dirt” drop down one level (about 20-25 ft) and traverse right onto the slab through the bushes, or2) If you want to avoid the first “bouldery” move (fall potential onto a flat ledge) then traverse in from the starting dirt ledge of Catharsis. 

Protection

Std rack....same as Catharsis