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Peak Mountain 3

Ground Control to Major McNeely

FA Kristoffer Wickstrom (solo), 2005
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is located on the east face of Sphinx Rock and ascends a slightly overhanging face onto a ledge, traverses left into a crack that runs up into a roof and then traverses the roof right and fallows a crack system till it ends with a few easy but sketchy free moves.

The Crux starts about 10-15 feet off of the ground with a thin rurp/beak seem, be sure not to fall any where on the first half of this climb or you will zipper your gear then crater into the deck and it will be extremely messy for the poor fool that has to clean it up… the upper half of the route also has a ledge lurking below just waiting for some one to fall and clip it on the way down.

But overall it’s a good and straight forward aid route.

Protection

There are no bolts on this route and there is one fixed aluminum head and 2 fixed rurps.

You will need several of each of the listed items to send this route: rurps, small beaks, small micro nuts, hooks, duct tape, knife blades, one small lost arrow, cam hooks, 1 red ball-nut, 1 pink tri-cam, doubles in micro cams - #1 camalot, a set of nuts, a few fist size cams to build and anchor at the top and several spare heads just incase you blow the fixed one.


Routes in Kosmos Wall


  1. 2
    Ground Control to Major McNeely
    5.6
    Trad · Aid