Beta Blocker Corner

Pitch 1: From the bolted rap station just above the 200 foot waterfall, chimney horizontally upstream in the slot canyon just above the water, until a rock step blocks progress. Stem right to a slippery, awkward corner, then go straight up to a belay atop big blocks. (90 feet, 5.9+) Pitch 2: From the blocks, scramble upstream 30 feet, then head left, to the base of the canyon wall. The prominent black corner begins about 90 feet above the canyon floor. To reach it, climb fragile, difficult face (5.10d), about 15 feet to the right of a rotten, wide chimney system, clipping 2 pro bolts. Go straight up to a foot stance with 2 rap/belay bolts. (80 feet, 5.10d). Some of this rock is fragile; pro can be challenging to place due to the steepness. Pitch 3: This is a magnificent pitch. Go straight up the corner, with wild stemming over small roofs. Be careful with the fragile pillar at the beginning. There is a small ledge with 2 rap/belay bolts at the top of the pitch. (90 feet, 5.10a) Pitch 4: Climb a classic chimney with 2 tight squeeze sections, to a comfortable ledge with 2 rap/belay bolts. There is adequate pro on the pitch. (90 feet, 5.9) Pitch 5: Creative stemming leads up this beautifully varnished, exposed corner to 2 rap/belay bolts on a ledge to the right (90 feet, 5.9). Pitch 6: Step left to the hueco’ed corner/chimney and climb this to the top of the formation; there is one loose block which should not be touched. (70 feet, 5.7). Pitches 5 and 6 can be combined. Descent: Rappel pitches 2-6 with one 60 meter rope. Rappel pitch 1 via canyoneers’ threaded slings. Rappeling the lower waterfall requires two 60 meter ropes.

Location: In Ice Box Canyon, above the obvious 200 foot waterfall which lies a few hundred yards left of Frigid Air Buttress. Beautiful walls rise on the left (southeast) side of the drainage just above the waterfall. This route climbs the most prominent, varnished, right-facing corner/flake, which begins in a flat area about 60 feet above the initial 200 foot waterfall. The corner is not visible from the floor of Ice Box Canyon; one must be above the 200 foot waterfall to have a good view. Access this route by climbing to the end of The Sanctuary’s two traverse pitches, then scrambling 20 feet down into the slot canyon above the waterfall.

Rack: Doubles to #4 Camalot. Bring a light selection of nuts.