- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a new direct start to a scary old route so that the beautiful cracks can be more easily accessed. I can't imagine that our second pitch hadn't been done but we did break off some foot holds right at the beginning and some more stuff along the way so... idk. The second pitch can be avoided by walking thru the chimney to the other side of the pinnacle. You could easily climb the 1st pitch, walk through and avoid the OW and then summit the formation by finishing on the 5.8 standard route. P1) starts right at the foot of the formation. its the very first thing you come to on the approach. I personally think there are 2 cruxes on this pitch, 1 at the 1st bolt and then also the cracks. friends have said 5.8 to 10- for that move. I guess it depends on your slab skills. Continue up past bolts and cracks, cross the upper slab to the roof. Upper slab does take small gear. Pass the roof and commit to cracks for fun and exciting moves. Continue up and follow cracks around to the ledge up and left. (10-)P2) Go straight up the OW/chimney thing heading for the hole at the top. Go through the hole exiting to the south and follow the obvious way to the top of the formation. (5.9)descent) 2 single rope raps from any of the summit anchors will get you off this formation in a variety of ways
Location
This route is the first thing you come to at the crag. It's right at the foot of the formation.
Protection
Standard double rack and small wires but nothing bigger than a #3 is needed
Routes in Fist Pinnacle
- 1Courage is Contagious5.10-Trad