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Peak Mountain 3

Hocus Pocus

FA Bill Gibson, 2012
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

While this route looks pretty cool and is quite unique, the climbing is only OK.

Start up a very low angle slab, hoping the popcorn footholds don't break off on you. When possible, utilize the corner for some awkward moves on slightly damp holds. Higher, traverse almost directly left under the roofs and at one point moving left on a cool foot ramp. Finish up the easier finish, and mantel up onto the ledge for the chains.

The route traverses so much, it requires cleaning by seconding. Cleaning on TR would be near impossible or at least very annoying.

I found this to be pretty hard for 10c. It felt more like 11- to me.

Location

Towards the far right side of the main Hogwarts area, walk past the easier slab routes, and look the the 70° degree slab / left-facing dihedral.

Protection

11 bolts to anchors.