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Peak Mountain 3

Sidewinder

FA Kevin Worral & Eric Schoen, June 1974
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Begin in the center of the formation at a left-facing flake and climb up this to a bolt. Thin face past the bolt (crux) leads into a left-arching crack system and then a vertical crack which ends at the obvious dike. Mantle up, clip a bolt and then make a long, thought-provoking traverse up and left until able to reach the top.

To descend downclimb/leap across a gap to reach a pinnacle with rap anchors located to the climber's left.

This is another semi-classic route to do and one that won't soon be forgotten. Not as scary as it looks, it's still fairly sporty and thus not recommended unless solid at the grade.

Location

Approach from Hidden Valley Campground by skirting along the south end of

The Blob

and then following a trail along the west face (passing Hobbit Roof) to the mouth of Steve Canyon. As an alternative park on the Quail Springs Road (the main road) and follow a trail leading east towards The Blob and Steve Canyon.

Sidewinder climbs face and cracks up to an obvious left-slanting dike system on the large west-facing formation at the mouth of Steve Canyon.

Protection

2 bolts (3/8"), gear to 3"