- Edit (TBD)
Description
An excellent trad climb and a North Country classic! Beautiful location and almost guaranteed solitude. Easily toproped by climbing in from Planet Claire.Step through a tree to gain the face on the right side of the arete. Up to an overlap, then move around the arete to a tight hands crack and gain a fingercrack. Then, onto the crux face sequence where the crack ends. Punch it to a working stance (crux), clip a bolt, then step onto the right face to gain an orange jug*. Swing back left around the arete again into a corner, then up to a ledge. A burly fistcrack pulls through a bulge and then deposits you at a cedar with a fixed anchor.*The jug is a flake which seems fine but maybe a bit fragile, be careful handling it. Pull down, not out!
Location
In front of a triangular, waist-high boulder downhill and right of the massive Planet Claire corner, at the left side of the base of the towering arete.
Protection
A pretty full rack. Fist size gear useful. Doubles in the #1 C4 size are particularly recommended. The bolt is questionable...