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Peak Mountain 3

Blood Meridian

FA Mike Williams
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is one of the NRG's better trad lines of the grade.  Climb through blocky rock with some pro to reach a bolt just below a mini-roof.  Get your Rifle on, and thrutch through this kneebar and layback roof, looking for inobvious pro if you want to protect a bad fall into the ledge below.  Past the roof, get established at the base of a tips crack, clip another bolt, and execute the extremely tenuous face crux up to a tips lock.  Work up from here, with a #4 stopper at the ready to protect the last few moves of the crux.  Past this are a few more moves of hard crack climbing, which lead you to a well-deserved jug rest.  30 more feet of pumpy and sequential 5.11 crack climbing will take you to the anchors.

Location

On the buttress separating the Genocide Cave from the Burning Calves area, look for a prominent hanging tips crack.

Protection

Two bolts, tiny cams, stoppers, and drop-in anchors.