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Peak Mountain 3

Schizophrenia

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Description

A very worthwhile route. Scramble to the top of the boulder pile. Immediately, the climb is in your face. Strenuous jamming leads around the ceiling up into a left facing corner and a welcome jug. Climb straight up from there following a handcrack. Eventually, the crack putters out below a small overhang. Luckily, there are some good sidepulls and few small gear placements, making the final moves not as crazy as they first appear.

Location

A few feet to the right of the giant chimney (Old Route). There is a stack of large boulders. Above these you will see a ceiling with a crack that runs up and left turning into a left facing corner.

Protection

Gear - to 2". A #1 mastercam was comforting near the top.

Anchor - There are some slings around a large chockstone in the chimney that I used with a piece of gear and some skimpy trees.