Anteater

Another stop on the Sunset sandbag tour. This is probably the best 5.6 in the state. Just be ready for that section of 5.9...

Climb a wide crack in a corner up to a large ledge. From the ledge, two cracks lead up the left face. The right crack is in a corner, and seems like it might be old-school, grovely 5.6. The left crack leads off from the edge of the ledge and splits the face.

Guidebooks seem to indicate you're supposed to take the left crack, and we went that way because it looked awesome. The good news: it was awesome. The bad news: it goes at about 5.9.

Either way you go, you'll eventually arrive up and left at a nice ledge with an L-shaped tree on it. You could stop there, but why not go all the way? Move up and right on the exposed face and top out on the arete.

Hiking down the trail past the Treasure Chest area (Dodge City et al.), after a few minutes you'll pass a short section of cliff next to the trail with an obvious cave in it. Backtrack and head up the eroded trail to the left of the cave to a ledge system up above the trail. Look for an obvious wide crack in a right-facing corner.

If you want to sew up the wide section down low, bring a #4 C4 and two #5s. It can be done with much less. Light rack for the rest.

No fixed anchor at the top. Be prepared to improvise.