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MapDescription
Pitch 1 (5.8+, 90 feet): Slab past three bolts and gear into the narrowing chimney, then stem through an awful 20-ft sugar band with a bolt near the top. Belay from the two-bolt anchor on the ledge.
Pitch 2 (5.9, 90 feet): Climb up and out a big bombay/roof (crux) and continue all the way up the tight chimney/offwidth, bumping a trusty 6" cam (or two) for about 50 feet of moderate terrain. After birthing yourself from the chimney, step left to climb out the small roof on its left side. Around the left side of the roof is a short left-facing dihedral leading to a two-bolt anchor next to a bench seat.
Scramble 30 feet to the summit.
Location
Obvious chimney on the west side of the spire.
Protection
Single rack to 4" + one or two 6" cams One 60m rope
Routes in Wheatbelly Spire
- 1Wheatbelly Chimney5.9Trad