Two-Headed Boy

Middle of upper-tier, just west of exposed catwalk leading to "Count Dregula". The second route established on this tier in 2008, the crack took several hours to de-vegetate. The hardest pure trad route in the canyon.(?)

Start just right and 30' below overhanging/left-leaning crack. The business starts at this crack. Lie-back this overhang via increasing difficult grips and feet with small gear. At the apex of overhang a fixed nut marks the crux. Powerful lie-backing to blind jams with smears for feet. Easier crack leads to anchors.

Hopefully no more routes will be squeezed next to this great line. The amount of bolts at this crag has already jumped exponentially the past 2 years.

RPs to 1.5"