- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a link up of all 3 eagle beaks. Done in honor of a true shuteye warrior. Justin Ross’ dog Ahria “Adu” was there for many of the first ascents of this area and even earned herself an entire wall!! (Ahria wall). She recently passed away and Justin’s brother Jeremy suggested this link up for us, as a tribute. I was thrilled to be a part of something so special. Folks, this thing is so fun!! Starting with the Hummingbird Arete (5.9) you get instant exposure and some of the steepest highest quality 5.9 you’ll ever find! (Walk off, or leave gear, bolts no rings) I Next on the list is Baby Eagle Beak. The route we chose on that was Thermal Rider (5.10). Save the gear, aside from maybe a nut or two this thing protects well enough on bolts alone. Two wild roofs go actually quite easily and quickly you find yourself on the second summit. (Rap, single 70 gets you to the belay in one rap. Tie knots!!)Next up, South Eagle Beak. Get ready, this one is amazing! Scramble up to the start and locate a bolt up high. Chimney up placing gear till you can clip a bolt, chimney a bit more till you can clip and other and launch out onto amazing white granite. Bolts take you to a single meter wide summit. Stand up, air guitar on top and rap back down. (Single 70 works just fine).
Location
North Eagle Beak- Hummingbird Arete 5.9
Baby Eagle Beak- Thermal Rider 5.10
South Eagle Beak- South Eagle Beak Arete 5.9
Must do it in day (easily done)
Must stand on all summits.
Protection
Bolts, single rack to 2”