- Edit (TBD)
Description
This fine crack leads to the top of the cliff, but only the first two pitches are worth doing. The third is choss.
Look for a two bolt anchor (there are not many) with an angling crack to the right. This is the start.
Pitch 1: 40 feet, 5.10b/c. Start on 5.8 terrain to a nice, thin, hand crack finish. The 5.10b/c is only a few moves near the top and protects very well. 1 bolt, 1 pin anchor.
Pitch 2: 60 feet, 5.8. Continue up the featured crack with fun pockets. Near the top it is extremely loose. 2 bolt anchor. Did I mention super loose?
Pitch 3: 40 feet, 5.6-7? I didn't do this pitch, but looking at the garbage on the ledge before the final headwall, it didn't seem worth it.
A 60m rope will be just enough rope to rappel from the top of the second pitch.
Location
It is 150 feet to the left of
Coyote's Tooth
.
Protection
A standard trad rack and a helmet.
Routes in Turtle Lake Cliffs
- 3Ichabod5.10b/cTrad