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Peak Mountain 3

Islands of Stability (open project)

FA This could be you! (Up to the 2nd bolt was Kole, Jake, and Dustin in 2004)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Unfinished project open to anyone willing to continue up to the ledge hand-drilling from stances.  Bring a hand drill and a bolt-- there should be 1 more stance after the crux.  I just ask that you don't change the name or rap-bolt.

Fun and exciting face climbing up an arete on the right side of the Snort Wall, left of a dirty chimney.

The first 2 bolts I ever drilled were on this climb, hand-drilled from calf-burning stances.  The second has been tested dozens of times up to 190 lbs, so it must be good.  There is a bit of gear between the bolts.  Up to the high point there are 2 5.10a-ish cruxes. Both come a long ways above your gear (see picture).  At the 2nd bolt, there is a hard 10 feet of climbing.  This marks the current high point.

I went back with Jake a few years ago to have another go at it and after giving up on doing it in good style we climbed the chimney to put in a TR anchor with the hopes of head-pointing it. We managed to TR it at around 12- or 12, but neither of us were up to the lead.  If anyone is into this sort of fun, it's a worthy climb.

The second pitch also looks good, and would be a similar style.

Location

On the far right side of the Snort Wall, on the way to the Coke Wall, you'll come to a big chimney.  Stop there and look up the low-angle arete on the left side of the chimney.  Don't be fooled by the angle, it's harder than it looks.  There should be a couple of lonely bolts up there if you look hard enough.

Protection

nuts, 1 each up to #1 camelot