"S" Crack (mid-cliff start)

This alternate ending to Bill’s Crack has some fine climbing, somewhat resembling Snowpatch Std. in the Bugaboos.  It starts by continuing left on P3 of Bill’s Crack.  Climb P1 and P2 of Bill’s Crack.  (As mentioned, these two pitches probably(?) can be combined with today’s longer ropes.)  P3 – Climb the red gulley as for Bill’s route, but from its top traverse a “full rope length” ( 100 - 130 +/- ft) left on slabs (moving below, and farther left of the bottom-most of the triple overhangings.)  Climb a 20 ft corner, “jamming a crack (height dependent) to a small belay on the right, or move 10 ft higher on left and belay on top of a little buttress”.   P4 – Climb up to a short pinnacle on the right and enter the 4-inch wide “S-Crack” (which makes a reverse “S”). At its top, move left to belay.  140 ft  5.5-5.6  P5 – Scramble through bushes 60 ft to “lunch spot” just below where large, sloping blocks end the very easy scrambling.  P6 – Up blocks ( only 5.2 +/-) then continue up a ramp to a large grassy stance.  150 ft  5.2 P7 – Back right, then up a shallow corner (5.3 ) then along a ramp system (resident pin placed 1971) to a corner below a difficult-looking inside corner.  150- ft 5.4   P8 – Move left 20-30 ft around the corner, then up easily to the level of the top of the Serpent’s Head.  150 ft 5.2  This pitch is probably part of the N.B. Headwall route. P9,10,11 – Climb the ribs and ridges (part of NB Headwall route) 

See "Bill's Route

Std Rack - perhaps a #3 or "4 for the wide crack