Baby Whale

Yes this tiny route is goofy looking at only 24'6" from ground to anchor.  But you might be wailing as you try to figure out the opening sequence.  It is slightly overhanging and there is action all the way to the anchor.  Think of it as being like a harder Steve's Arete without wasting time doing the easy stuff at the start of Steve's.

It is tempting to rate it 5.12-, but I can't quite do that.

Stick clip of 1st bolt is okay, maybe even recommended.  But pre-clip of 2nd is cheating.

Shade until 2pm.  Super easy to set up a TR on this route.

This route is on the BACK side of the lower crag.  If you are already at the base of the LOWER crag, you can go up around the right side to reach it.  But it is EASIER to reach it from the TOP OF THE UPPER CRAG by 3rd classing down the narrow gulley on the east side of the upper crag.

3 bolts (1/2 x 5 !!) and Mussys