Lemonade

This is a variation in the middle of the

Lemon Squeezer

.

Start as normal for the

Squeezer

. Go through the first section of slot canyon, and squeeze up through the hole to the large opening. Locate where the

Squeezer

turns left into the narrower canyon. This is where you leave the normal route for the

Squeezer

.

Instead of following the bottom of the slot canyon as you normally would, chimney straight up for about 30 feet, utilizing several sloping ledges, until you emerge into open air on one side, with the way to the very top of the slot blocked by a huge chockstone. Surmounting the chockstone is the crux. I used several small face holds in addition to chimney technique. An unroped fall here could see one bouncing off a ledge and tumbling 50 feet to the ground.

The next obstacle is 4th Class/5.easy traversing along the side of the steep, patina covered ridge to where you can drop down into the

Squeezer

proper. This section has 70 feet of exposure and is very treacherous. Consider bringing rappel gear and bailing at this point instead of doing the traverse.

Then continue through the crux of the

Squeezer

.

See the

Lemon Squeezer

route.

I would recommend bringing a rope to bail if needed. One could protect the crux by slinging the corner of the chockstone. The traverse is definitely "no-fall" terrain.