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Peak Mountain 3

Wild Goose

FA Rick Piggott, 1980s
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is the mother of all south woodson problems. Start in a right facing overhanging corner with some sweet tight hand and finger locks while you work your way up the corner with some funk. Eventually the crack will pinch down and you will have to crimp and tech your way for another 10 feet to where the crack opens again. Plug in some gear and then figure out the crux sequence over the bulge and then clip a bolt. Motor your you way up to the anchors through a somewhat awkward right leaning crack.

The anchors are accessible by walking up the backside. Either down climb the 4th class boulder to access the anchors or there is a rap station to rappel to the anchors? Not sure why it's there as it didn't really seem necessary, but oh well. If setting up the top rope you may want to clip into a bolt up by the anchors to protect yourself. It's a bit awkward up there.

Location

Call box trail, pass the tortilla chip then make a left at the top and follow that to the big cluster of boulders. Can't miss it.

32.995306, -116.966365

Protection

Thin rack with an emphasis on small gear. Doubles from .3-.75 and a few smaller pieces.