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Peak Mountain 3

Wire Brush Hair Cut

FA Tom McLeod, 80's
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route begins with some interesting stemming and liebacking. After the second bolt, move up and right to the arete on big holds. The fourth bolt, which protects the crux, can be clipped from a nice stance. The crux itself is a neat boulder problem involving crimps, side pulling, and a tough move to a good right hand from which to clip the next bolt.

From here, things ease up, but not too much as you're left pumped and pulling up to a strenuous mantel before finishing on a slightly runout but easy slab.

It is also apparently possible to go out right at the crux on larger holds, bringing the grade down to 11b.

Location

Look for the cleanly cut column forming a roof at about 20' with a bolt at its lip. This line begins just left of here in a L-facing corner.

After the crux, ascend directly up the bolt line, ignoring the two bolts splitting leftward which mark the finish for Fotzhobel 12c.

Protection

6 Bolts to anchors consisting of 2 Metolius rap hangers and 2 chains.