Disneyland

In 1961, Jim Disney climbed a route that came to be known as "Direct," 5.6 A4 (from Fricke's 1970s guidebook). Direct's limited write-up said it ascended a "black, evil chimney" near the center of the wall (about 40' left of where the approach to the cliff). It goes up into a deep, dark slot about 130 feet up, and perhaps 30 feet right of P2 of

Maternal Damnation

. Disneyland ascends the arete left of Direct and then crosses over it on P2.

P1. Go up to a ledge beneath the white scar a little left of center (an old mine), and move right to belay. Climb into a steep groove with quartz crystals, and climb along the left side of an arete past 7 bolts (10) to a stance (bolted anchor with chains).

P2. Climb the left edge of the chimney (4 bolts and a cam in an overlap, 10), and then cross over its top into the crack system. Move right after 15-20 feet (long sling), and continue up a steep wall (4 bolts and possible cam, 10) to a belay with chains.

Rappel twice (95 feet, 80 feet).

B. Gillett has toproped (X) 200 feet above the current high point of the route. The second half goes over a 10- overhang and then follows a right-leaning 5.8/5.9 half-pipe (bordered on the left by an attractive dike).

Scramble up to a ledge at the base of the mine hole near the center of the crag and 15 feet below and right of the start to

Maternal Damnation

.

Bring 9 QDs for the first pitch. The second requires some cams and a double-length runner. I placed a #0.5, #1 and #2 Camalot.