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Peak Mountain 3

Purist or Luddite?

FA Chuck Calef and Darien Raistrick
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The middle Warren tower looks like a tower from below but might be better described as a steep ridge. This route begins at the extreme lowest point of the tower. Third class up a white dike to a bushy ledge (25 feet). The 25-foot cliff above is split by 2 cracks. Climb the left one (20 feet, 5.8, loose blocks). Pass through some bushes and climb up and right on flakes and ledges for two short pitches (some 5.8). Then climb straight up passing large overhangs on the right to gain the ridge. The route then follows the ridgeline for several pitches gradually becoming easier and looser. When the ridge becomes a horizontal 3rd class scramble you can walk off to the left and descend a savage gully back to the base of the tower. The ridge, however, continues upward and one could certainly climb higher.

Location

See the approach directions for the Warren Towers. Leave the approach gully about 100 feet below the tower's base and scramble up rightwards to the extreme lowest point of the tower. The route climbs the middle Warren tower, south ridge.

Protection

Wires and hexes only, hence the name of this route.


Routes in Warren Towers