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Peak Mountain 3

Eric Rudolph's Hideout/ Unused Traverse

FA John "Whitey" MacLean 1987-89
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Powerful starting move with a balancy crux and a VB top out. Sit start at the arete by matching hands on a roundish jug at about 2 feet off the ground. Pop up to the next sharp jug right above the starting hold on the arete at about 4 feet tall. Traverse left using small crimps until you can reach big holds at the horizontal crack then climb up and top out. There are many small holds and rock features on this problem. Many different beta can be used. Choose one that works for you. The Tim Kemple book lists this problem as V5. Let's see what the consensus would be.

Location

At the big split of split rock. Look for two obvious horizontal jug rails, one at 2 feet, 1 at 4 feet high. The Sit down V2 is on the right side of the split and Eric is on the left side of the split next to Dave's Crank.

Protection

A spotter is needed. Two or three pads recommended. Hold a thin slide pad to protect the climber from the slab to the right at the starting moves. Then use a slide pad to protect the climber from the tree. The slide pad needs to be thin or the climber will be dabbing excessively.