Sick for Toys

This route would probably be quite popular if any of the guidebooks actually told you where it is. It is NOT near the Western Spaces Wall. Approach by going up the south fork of Black Velvet Canyon, past the start of Epinephrine, to the fork at the white slab. Here, take the right branch up the wash along the north side of Corduroy Ridge. About two or three hundred yards past the white slab, the canyon widens and there is a large beautiful slab on the left side. Sick for Toys is the thin fingertip crack on the left side of the slab.

Pitch 1: A broken ledge system stretches across the lower left side of the slab, beneath a few layers of roof-arches. Start below the right end of these ledges, just to the left of a bush. The boulder that simplified the opening moves has been washed away, so the first fifteen feet involve some balancy 5.9 with a bad landing. Once you get onto the easy rock, go a long way to the left. When leftward progress is finally blocked by the arches (maybe 50 feet or so), climb over them to a bush. Go right and up on easy face climbing for quite some distance to a bolted belay station at the base of the thin crack. Other than the first few moves, the climbing is 5.5 and under. The issues of rope drag, spotting the leader, and protecting the second provide some challenge on this otherwise easy pitch.

Pitch 2: Climb straight up the crack (5.8) to a hanging belay at two more bolts. (From this belay, look down and right about 30 feet to a bolted station on the blank face. This can be reached in a long rappel from the top of the route, and allows a somewhat straighter descent.)

Pitch 3: Continue up the vanishing crack (5.10b), passing 4 bolts to another belay station on a tiny ledge.

Pitch 4: Climb up past a bolt, jog briefly right to surmount the roof, then continue up the finger crack above. A second bolt protects difficult climbing (5.10d) to easier rock and the top anchor.

Wires, small cams up to #3.