- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a direct start to the route Yellow Brick Road. Follow 3 bolts up and right to the Yellow Brick Road ledge, then clip 3 more up to the anchors. Clip the first bolt from the ground and head up and right on small, but good holds. At the 3rd bolt top out to the right and avoid the loose rock on the left. Follow Yellow Brick Road to the top doing some laybacking and more pumpy climbing while clipping 3 more bolts and the 5.10 crux of Yellow Brick Road just before the anchors.Last year, I cleaned off Yellow Brick Road and got showered in yellow moss and dirt. While I was rappelling in I noticed this line and thought it’d be a cool line to the top of the dome. No one really climbs Yellow Brick Road, but with this route you can climb part of it with no trad gear.
Location
From the main trail when you get to the first routes (road head and high voltage) go to the right and step down onto the belay platform. The route starts where the wall is covered in a white lichen. Look for a line of bolts that leads up to the ledge and corner of Yellow Brick Road.Note: The route Yellow Brick Road starts way down the hillside to the right.
Protection
Six bolts to chain anchors, with no trad gear needed. The PG13 rating is for the 5.10 runout on Yellow Brick Road after the last bolt. If you whip it’s big and clean. The lower 5.11 moves are well protected. The route has 1 perma draw on the 3rd bolt, and soon I’m going to install another one on the 2nd bolt as well. [ed. note: chain is extended over the lip.]Best to have your partner follow on TR to clean the route, as getting to the first four quickdraws on rappel is very difficult (if not almost impossible).
Routes in French's Dome
- 32Golden Shower5.11aSport