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Peak Mountain 3

Burrito Bandito

FA Dave Daly and Gerry Jessuran (May 5th 2007)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A fun addition to the Melting Wall, a wild and knobby veritcal face, just left and above the apron area. Burrito Bandito is a "knob slingin' fest" which starts just left of two parallel seams (a route called Prolly Bomber, 5.10b). Climb straight up passing rounded patina before reaching better holds. Sling the first good knob encountered, which is shaped like a burrito. From this knob, move up and slightly left to a series of side pulls to gain tightly spaced patina (good for slotting nuts and small cams). Continue straight up, slinging knobs and slotting nuts. Eventually, the knobs get bigger and the climbing eases off. When the knobs begin to peter out, locate a small ledge with 2-bolt ring anchors. Lower or rap off. A 70 meter rope will barely reach.

Location

This route is located above the far left side of the apron area. Skirt the base of the apron area until a 4th class friction section is encountered. Head up to the base of the wall. The start of Burritio Bandito is left of two seams and 20' right of a black crack/chimney.

Protection

Lots of slings for knobs

Nuts (emphasis on #3 to #6)

Small cams (Aliens helpful)

70 meter rope