North Face

This moderate alpine rock route is classic both for the quality of the climbing and the sheer ambiance of the wall it tackles. The long approach to Lone Eagle Peak ensures solitude, and the cirque itself is unmatched for beauty in the entirety of the Indian Peaks.

Despite the moniker, most of the climbing takes place on the east side of the peak. Scramble southeast up a steep grassy slope for 200 yards from Crater Lake to the base of the east face. The route starts from the talus field just over the crest -- look for a large, tree-filled bench.

P1. Climb wet black rock (5.4) past a pin, aiming between the two large trees on the bench.

P2-4. Follow a 5.0 ramp up and south (climber's left), climbing over, around and through numerous trees en route. You can break this bit up or simul-climb. It's mostly 3rd and 4th class. It helped me to scope this bit out from the valley below and to the east of the peak, since only the final pitches are visible from Crater Lake.

P5. The ramp ends at a grassy gully which splits the east face. Climb broken rock (5.3) straight up this cleft to the base of a deep, water-streaked chimney.

P6. Climb the chimney (5.5), making use of the positive face holds on the right wall to get past a few tricky spots.

P7-8. Grassy slopes interspersed with occasional rock steps (5.4) lead to the top of the cleft, which deposits you on a huge ledge system below the summit cliffs.

P9. 3rd or 4th class south up blocky ramps to reach the summit cliff band.

P10. The crux! This 150-foot pitch follows a pair of twin cracks on the northwest-facing summit headwall, about 100 feet west of the prominent arete where the east and north faces meet. You will most likely need to move right and down from your last belay to reach the start of cracks. Don't be suckered into trying the diagonalling twin cracks closer to the arete -- it's off route. You'll know you're on route if you pass 4 old pins. Move right from the top of the cracks past a spike. Belay above on a huge ledge.

P11. Move your belay about 100 feet south (left) along the ledge to the base of a left-angling 5.4 corner/chimney. With a 60 meter cord you can reach the top of the peak in one pitch from here. When the chimney peters out, either belay or continue wandering up broken rock (choose your own adventure) to the summit.

P11 Alternate. Take the striking hand crack up the center of the northeast face at 5.8. It takes solid pro with finger and hand jamming to a great ledge just below the summit. Optionally belay here, or finish off the summit if you have a 60m.

A light rack should suffice for this route. Bring 1 set of stoppers, some mid-range TCUs, Camalots to #3 (doubles in #1 and 2), and plenty of long slings.