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Peak Mountain 3

KA Right Variation

FA Katie Kelble and Kent Pease, July 20, 2021
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a variation to the right of the first half of

Kidding Around

. It ascends the right face of a left-facing, shallow corner with discontinuous cracks then wanders up and left joining the main KA route halfway up the arete. The crux section is the steep face off the ledge, which is technical, continuous, and tricky, with the need to fiddle in gear.

For the difficult section up the face off the ledge, the protection is adequate but is primarily tiny/small cams and nuts requiring skill and patience for good placements. The sloping ramp/ledge at the base is exposed, but gear placements are available for an anchor.

See the “Right Variation” topo below and the “

Kidding Around

” topo associated with the main route. My apology for the crude drawing that hopefully at least resembles reality. The route name is being debated with suggestions of: “Playing Around”, “Holy Moly”, “Goat East Young Man”, “Goat to Be”, or ??

Location

Start about 20 feet right of the main

Kidding Around

route and 12 feet right of the big arete. The distances are very approximate! See the main

Kidding Around

route for the approach which can be either by rappel or by descending the sloping ramp.

Protection

A single rack of cams and nuts including tiny/small cams, two to three each #2 and #3 Camalots, an optional #4 Camalot, and various quickdraws and runners.


Routes in Old Goat Wall


  1. 2
    KA Right Variation
    5.10a
    Alpine · Trad