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Peak Mountain 3

Hairy Hands

FA Ian Davis, Aaron Davis
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route starts on the Boulder. From the front porch, traverse under the obvious splitter and around to the right for about 30'.  P1) Climbs up easy ground through trees and looks to be heading straight to the crescent OW above. There is a bolt on the slab that protects the moves into the OW. Then up slabs and to big obvious chicken head on top of the boulder. 90ft, 5.9+P2) We thought this pitch was going to be more of a rope move but it ended up having a few unprotected moves. You generally want to move south along the ridge. The first step across is committing and then there are 2, 5.6 slab moves. Continue south and go around the big pillar and up on 4th class. Then, down climb into position onto the chockstone below your route. Many anchor options exist here. 100', 5.6P3) The Money. From the chockstone, step down and left onto the slab then head up and left to a small ledge with a steep left facing OW and steep chickenheads on the face. OW protects well and the next 15' are the crux. continue straight up the fun and sustained crack. towards the top. If you've had enough you can exit early to the GMH tree ledge out left or continue straight up like the Boa did and climb more 5.9. When the crack ends, step left above the tree to plated face. Supper cool easy plates and heads to finish. Save a big cam for the belay or belay off chickenheads at the top. 180', 5.10Rap into the gully off the big chicken head. Single rope is fine but I'd suggest using a 70. scramble back to the front porch

Protection

Standard double rack to 4 and 1 big cam