Double Hung

This is a nice moderate route on good rock right of the trad route that is right of Slab-a-dab-a-doo. It makes a good warmup for the harder climbs, being steeper than

Gypsies in the Palace

(the first pitch of

Fire Widow

), and it would fit in well with a day of moderate pitches including the 6 trad at the far left,

Gypsies in the Palace

and the first pitch of

Alloy Madness

.

The climb starts just left of the gully and angles gently left over several bulges. There's one particular hard move about half way up. Seemed harder than the 5.8

Gypsies in the Palace

and seemed harder to me than the 5.9 first pitch of

Alloy Madness

(whose crux overhang off the ground seems easy for me). So 5.9 seems about right.

Maybe 8 bolts (count them yourself) to a 2-bolt anchor with rings.