Standard Route aka Forbes-Montoya Route (West Approach)

An ascent of the Standard route (usually called the west approach to the Forbes or Forbes-Montoya route, although this is not the route they followed in their original ascent) is an outing not to be missed, earning three stars not for the technical climbing, but for the experience as a whole. The mountain will make you earn its summit; with a lengthy approach, unmarked trails, fickle weather by Southern Arizona standards, and virtually unprotected yet straightforward climbing, it defines the classic Arizona mountaineering experience. Hikers who know how to belay and rappel can ascend this route if accompanied by an experienced climber.The drive: To approach from the west, take Highway 86 to Sells. Turn south on what is probably the largest intersecting road in town. If you drive through Sells and start to think you missed the turn, you probably did. You should be heading towards the tiny town of Topawa. Babo will dominate your view to the left until you finally reach a sign pointing to the left for "Baboquivari Peak." There is a building/office on the east side of the road here. Turn east(left) and follow the dirt road until it forks, take the right fork, and follow it to its end at the Babo trailhead. My 2WD sedan made it fine, though I would have liked a bit more ground clearance. Bob Kerry's guide states the campground has water, tables, shelters, and is beautifully maintained. We found no running water, no shelter, and the place looked positively UNmaintained. Plan to bring all your own water, food, and stove if you expect to do dinner and camping. Supposedly there is a $3 use fee, but after 15 minutes of searching for where to pay both at the site and at the office back by the road, we gave up. Hope you're stocked up on good karma.The hike: Unlike Forbes' and Montoya's first ascent, I recommend you do not do this in July. The hike in could be brutally hot between April and October. Late Fall or early Spring will yield comfortable hiking weather; just bring some warm clothes for the summit. From any point at the campground parking lot at the west, bushwhack for through about 100 feet to reach a large, wide trail/wash that looks almost like a road. Go left on this trail, following it in the direction of the peak for less than a mile. You'll reach an intersection with signs. Go left onto the Waw Biluk trail to the summit, which climbs steadily for 5 miles and 3500 feet of elevation gain to eventually reach the Lion's Ledge, giving glimpses of Baboquivari along the way. Near the end of the hike, you should be able to make out the Great Ramp, a massive, bare slabby ramp which marks the entire lower north side of Baboquivari peak. The trail will become overgrown once on the Lion's Ledge and end, with the option of going left or right. Head left, toward the Great Ramp and the beginning of the Standard route.The Great Ramp: 250+ ft. In the 1930s, the CCC installed stairs at the Great Ramp and a ladder at the Ladder Pitch to facilitate easy access to an observation tower that was at the summit. The stairs, ladder, and tower have long since been dismantled, but some remnants of rusted steel and wood remain strewn throughout the route. I would not trust any of the old hardware - some of it looks like it could be pulled out by hand. The Great Ramp is low 3rd class climbing that could be soloed in approach shoes, but it is quite smooth and sustained and a fall here would risk serious injury. An inexperienced climber wearing sneakers may balk at ascending this unroped. There are trees and boulders that can be slung for protection, and some cracks that take pro. At the top of the Great Ramp, bushwhack through a cluster of oak trees, staying close to the wall on the right for maybe 100 feet. This will eventually open up at the Ladder Pitch.The Ladder Pitch: 120 ft; 5.4. The Ladder Pitch is where this route merges with the original Forbes ascent to the summit. The Ladder Pitch doesn’t protect well, although it is low 5th class. There is a pair of new-ish bolts halfway through the pitch and a pair of new bolts with chains at the top of the pitch, next to the tree that was previously used as the belay/rappel anchor. Belay from these bolts.From the top of the Ladder Pitch, head right (west). Climb a short chimney with a chockstone, entering a gully with scree and light vegetation. Turn left at the gully, following the gully up toward the summit. As the gully system weakens and opens up, stay close to the wall on your right and continue the scramble to the summit.For descent, carefully retrace your steps and rappel all three pitches. Be careful when you are routefinding on the way down. It is easy to descend into the wrong gully when leaving the summit. The oaks can hide the edges of the cliffs. These gullies invariably end at sheer cliff edges.Crank back to your car and don't forget to take a picture of the towering peak as you're driving away.

Three or four quickdraws, webbing, rap ring, and a 60m rope. Pro consists of old bolts and even older metal brackets. A solitary 8-inch tree provides the top anchor.