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Peak Mountain 3

Queen’s Highway

FA David Light, GB, 1/20/2021
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is the direct start to

Jennifer’s Crack

. From a big Douglas fir, climb a low-angled intermittent crack/weakness (5.7) to an overhanging band of fragile rock. In the overhang, avoid loose rocks, some of which I dislodged when following, and work hard for protection that may not hold a fall. Higher in the overhang, a #0.75, placed downward behind a fragile horizontal flake, supported a sling to stand in. Reaching this big incut would require a big free move that may be at least 5.11. A #2 Stopper was yarded on, instead. It remains

in situ

.

From the 0.75, another big move, then feeling around for the best grip, attains the westward-ascending first half of the

Jennifer’s Crack

route. Hump westward about four feet to the start of the vertical offwidth. David placed a #4 down in the lowest reachable extent of the crack and extended it. Because that was the biggest piece that he brought, he ran the 5.7 OW to the top. A medium Stopper placement may be possible near the top.  Bring #5s and a 6 if you want pro.

To descend, scramble easily about 50 feet west, to the bolted anchor atop

Rainbow Bridge

. Rappel.

Location

It is about 60 feet right of

Rainbow Bridge

.

Protection

A standard rack, including #5s and a 6 for the OW.