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Peak Mountain 3

The Spell

FA Clark & Steres (August 1976)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The Spell is the obvious chimney splitting the West face of the Warlock.

Pitch 1: approach pitch over a chockstone to the base of the chimney proper.

Pitch 2: a full 60m pitch up the chimney. You can walk your biggest cam up with you.

Location

To approach the Spell, first climb the first pitch of the Howling (worthwhile warmup in itself). Now, with 2 ropes rappel into the intimidating gully on the west face. Walk about 100 feet over to the start of the route.

Protection

Bring some big gear.