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Peak Mountain 3

Sisyphus

FA-Jimmy Dunn and Doug Snively, 1973. FFA-Jeff Achey and Chip Chace, 1981.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1-

Climb up broken rock to better rock, stem up corner past 2 drilled pins. Mantle and follow a finger crack to a good belay ledge. There are no anchors on top of pitch 1, Belay takes yellow Aliens (5.11).

Pitch 2-

Lieback strenuous thin crack (5.11) to a short OW/Chimney (5.8). Exit the chimney and traverse up and right to a bolted belay.

Pitch 3-

This is the business pitch. Climb the corner above the belay past a drilled pin, then traverse right on a ledge, to a poorly protected, crux move(solid 5.11). If you fell you would land on the ledge. Once above the crux, climb 5.7 past 2 pins to the summit.

Descent-

Rappel off the Northeast side of the tower. One 200' rappel got us to the ground, but we passed anchors on the way down.

Location

Start up the obvious dihedral on the left side of the south face.

Protection

set of stoppers

1xblack and blue Aliens

2xgreen Alien

5xyellow Alien

3x.5&.75 Camalot

3x1,2,3 Camalot

1xold 3.5 Camalot


Routes in Zeus