- Edit (TBD)
Description
Wow, this amazing line on great rock climbs the proudest feature of The Sail head-on up the intimidating, steep prow.
Start as for "
Keelhaul
" and "
Half Mast
," and climb up and right directly into the sustained, bouldery roof feature. Make hard, sequential moves with good clipping positions to an amazing throw move to "the jug," and get the clip before embarking on the engaging and difficult boulder problem crux. After the hard climbing is done, there is thought provoking 5.11 to the top with several no-hands rests before the final head-check boulder problem on airy moves just below the anchor.
This is a must do for the 5.13 climber and will need consensus to settle into its final rating. Please leave a comment about your experience on this stunner! The Poudre delivers once again!
Location
To start this route, climb up 6 feet of easy 4th class to gain the ledge that most of these Sail routes start on. There is a well-conceived belayer bolt just around the exposed corner. Stick clip the first bolt, on the overhanging prow or alternatively clip the first low bolt of the two 5.12s around left, and back-clean to avoid the sharp edge and rope drag. The bolts are close enough to yard on to go bolt-to-bolt, and the position is classic AF.
This was bolted by Noah Kaufman and Ben Wisner for your pleasure.
Protection
11 bolts with biners on the chains.