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Peak Mountain 3

The Way of the Increpids

FA Paul Ross, Leslie Brown, 27th Sept 2006
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

"The Way of the Increpids" Takes a line up clean slabs between Mercury and Tsumami.This is the easiest route to date to reach the summit of the Surfing the Swell formation.Starts about 100' to the right of Mercury ,just right of the lowest part of the slab between the two waves.

P1)Climb past a bolt at 80' to double anchors. 160' 5.6R.

P2)Go up the small groove on the right then to the left of the brown swirl then back right to its top. Bolt anchor . 250'5.4.

P3)To the groove on the right then easy slab to double anchors.200' 5.3.

P4) Another easy slab to large ledge. 200'5.3.

From here 4th class several hundred feet to the summit.

Descent. From the large ledge traverse left (south)for about 50' to the rap anchors on Mercury ,follow these to the ground.

Location

Drive to within quarter mile of Three Finger Canyon then walk north to the Surfing the Swell formation . About 20min easy walk

Protection

A few cams from #.5 Friend to #3.Slings Two 60m ropes. These were only used on P1