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Peak Mountain 3

Dark Side of the Moon

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Description

Start well left under the bolted face and climb up and to the right on a couple of thin edges to base of flake, then undercling and layback the flake to the top. The crux is probably getting fully onto the flake.

The flake is a cool feature that offers moves reminiscent of other (taller and better) climbs.

Location

The Pink Floyd Wall is the first (small) wall one comes to on the approach to the main cliff. The climb ascends up and around the flake that is probably the most prominent feature on the cliff.

Protection

Bolted TR anchors.

I thought I remember this flake expanding a bit (a long time ago), but it felt pretty solid the last time I climbed it. It could be led, but you would have to place gear semi-blind and would be pretty strenuous. It would be good practice though for harder climbs maybe, but it is a fun top-rope.