- Edit (TBD)
Description
Side pull the arete that terminates the right side of the bulging face. This leads to an enormous no hands rest, although it's (VERY) early for a rest.
Follow the bolt line up and right. Pull the immediate mini-roof to a position at the flaring crack.
Climb the easier (sustained 5.10+) broken-up vertical face to a no-hands (if you can find it) rest below the intimidatingly enormous roof.
Pull hard on big moves on great jugs to the anchor.
NOTE: This route is exceptionally difficult to clean on rappel or while being lowered. You may have a partner clean this on their way up the clipped end of the rope, on top-rope. I will try to get some permanent draws donated from a manufacturer by Summer 2015.
Location
The line that takes on the full center of the imposing roof at the top of the CONCERT HALL sub-area.
More importantly, this is an amazing climb for its grade, in a perfectly remote location to only be climbed by the lucky few who get there.
CONCERT HALL sub-area 1 [[CH - Route 01 (5.9)]]109370890 2 [[CH - Route 02 (5.8)]]109370901 3 [[CH - Route 03 (5.12)]]109374292 4 [[CH - Route 04 (5.11)]]109374301 5 [[CH - Route 05 (5.10)]]109374308 6 [[CH - Fiddle of Gold (5.11)]]109371067 7 [[CH - Route 07 (5.10)]]109374184 8 [[CH - Route 08 (5.11)]]109374880 9 [[CH - Route 09 (5.7)]]109374889
Protection
13 bolts, to a 2-bolt anchor with permanent sport carabiners on the chains.