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Peak Mountain 3

Psychotic Reaction

FA unknown
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Description

A great route that never gets climbed the “right” way. Start In the chimney to the left of the thin flake and in front of a slabby block. Step up onto the block (~3 feet) and stem right (do NOT climb 10-15' up the chimney in spite of what is written elsewhere, and do not reach the ledge between the first and second bolts with your feet still on the block) to reach the very base of the flake (below the first bolt) with your right hand. Climb the face of the flake, avoiding the wall to the left (not even once!) and treading lightly at the hollow and fractured flake just below the top. A direct start to the flake has been done with the same overall grade.

Protection

Bolts. Bolt anchors which may be difficult (dangerous) to access.


Routes in Gregory


  1. 25
    Psychotic Reaction
    5.11c/d
    Sport · Tr