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Peak Mountain 3

Frozen Will

FA First pitch: Unknown. Second pitch:Jesse Zacher
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Description

The route is one of the best that I have put up in the canyon. The first pitch had been done prior to my arrival, but the second pitch had remained un-climbed. The first pitch is short and leads you to a ledge where the second pitch begins. This pitch is around 5.10. After a lot of cleaning, I added four bolts to the beginning 15-20 feet of pitch two where an acute corner with a thin seam starts the climb. The second pitch is broken up with several great rests, so just when things seem to get desperate, full recovery can be had. The majority of the climb follows a great crack of all sizes that leads its way to 3/4 the height of the wall. From here, a slight traverse right past the steepest section of the climb provides one last crux before some easier climbing to the top.

Location

The route is roughly a hundred feet left of

Velvet Hammer

. It is best recognized by the bright green lichen on a clean wall.

Protection

Nuts, double set from small to #2 Camalot. Three #0.4s were useful. Bring many runners as the pitch is quite long. There are bolted anchors from the rim as well as the old original anchors atop pitch 1. Bring two ropes to descend.