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Description
This route goes through the big gold face that you can see from the road. A little bit of everything: Start with a tricky slab, pull up a nice crack, then into a short, but difficult crux. Take a nice rest on a ledge, then finish up some easier climbing to the anchors. From the ledge, make sure you head to the right to the horizontal crack and the straight up through the bush (which always seems to grow back).
Slab and crux are bolted.
Location
Cross the creek and head to the left side of the crag. The obvious line headed up the biggest face. Climb up a short 4th class step to access the start.
Make sure you bring a 70 m rope to get down. 60 will come up short.
Protection
Blue TCU to gold Camalot, quickdraws, chain anchors. Make sure you save a good selection of cams for the top. Bring some double length slings to reduce rope drag at the ledge.