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Peak Mountain 3

Children of the Sun

FA Tom Cecil, Tony Barnes, John Rosholt 1994
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Really fun route with good belay ledges, mostly good rock, and some memorable moments.Pitch 1 - 5.9 (150') Head up and slightly to the right passing eight bolts, a rappel anchor on the left, and a ninth bolt that's great as a directional before making a right and easily traversing to a gear anchor at the base of a crack. Instead of making the traverse right, you can belay at the aforementioned rappel anchor and start the second pitch by continuing up and right past three bolts and joining the 2nd pitch crack before a roof.Pitch 2 - 5.10b (150') Straight up the fun crack on mostly good rock past three bolts and two minor roofs. Great climbing with a few interesting sections. Sustained at a 9+/10- grade with a short 10b crux. Pitch finishes on a good ledge with two bolts.Pitch 3 - 5.7 (100') Diagonal up and left into a chimney. Ascend the chimney straight up for ~20-30 feet until able to step right and up to a very large ledge at the base of a left facing corner. Gear anchor.Pitch 4 - 5.9 (110') Up the corner for some fun stemming and jamming until a point where it seems natural to wander left on to the face at a thin crack. You could continue up the comfortable and progressively easier crack on the right, but NO! The face and thin crack offers good protection and really fun 5.9 face climbing that will leave you with a smile. You'll top out on a good ledge with the obvious rappel anchor off to the far left side of the ledge.

DESCENT3 Double rope rappels straight down from the top anchors will put one on the ground about 20' from the start of the route. The rock on this face has many features that can snag your line so consider (a) saddle bagging your ropes as you descend, (b) keeping the ends with you as you rappel or (c) not using knots on the ends of your ropes if you so choose to toss them to help mitigate snagging from below. As of November 2021 all rap stations are fully equipped with rap rings.

Location

Begin just left of the big arch and to the right of Corn Flake and Poultronicus. From the ground you'll be able to locate quite a few bolts on the first pitch.

Protection

Full rack for second pitch including cams from metolius #0 up to a #3 C4. Nuts. I did not take doubles, but an extra .75 to #3 could get placed on the second pitch.