It Gets Easier

This route is not for the faint of heart or novice leader. The first piece of solid pro is about 8 feet off the ground. A fall will certainly put the climber onto the small boulders below. Twisted ankles or broken bones are a concern for the first few feet of climbing. Have a good spotter/belayer when climbing this route. After placing the first pro, pull the crux and look for your next piece of pro so you don't hit the deck! With that said, this is the hardest part of the climb. Afterwards, you can expect 5.5 or 5.6 for the remainder of the climb. This route will be relatively dry compared to the majority of the South Wall after it rains for good climbing all year round. Since this route starts directly on the hiking trail, be sure that there are not a lot of hikers on the island.Remember to be courteous and share the preservation with others. Most people are kind and stop to watch and ask questions. Let's keep the community's positive outlook of rock climbing to allow others to climb this in the future. 

This route is on the trail that follows the South Wall. You will know that you're at the base when you have to climb over some small boulders on the trail and squeeze next to a tree. The route starts above one of the small boulders and just left of Sleazy Corner. After starting, the route follows the edge of the face (up and left) to the highest peak. Alternatively, you may join the slab to the climber's right and top out via Sleazy Corner. After topping out, walk off to climber's left.

There are not a lot of opportunities for protection at the start. After a move or two, you can place a BD #.5 to protect the crux. Afterwards, there are plenty of opportunities for cam placement to protect along the face. A TR can be set up to two trees just right of the route at the top of the two boulders for Sleazy Corner. There will be significant rope drag if a TR is set up here.