- Edit (TBD)
Description
P1: 5.9, 80ft. Use a half inch crack to protect the first moves as you climb up and angle right on good holds to gain the first bolt. Climb past three bolts to gain a crack which widens from hands to off-width to stemming. One #4 Camalot can be walked to protect this section. There is also a micro cam placement out left on the arête to protect the wideness above. Belay atop pillar at a caballo belay, either slinging the entire top of the pillar or using medium to large cams in a crack. Be sure to straddle the pillar while belaying or you have not really done the route.
P2: 5.8, 130ft. Continue up to a bolt and head left and up to a key .75 Camalot placement in a pod. Pass two bolts and seams for gear, then aiming right for an exposed horizontal crack that traverses right around a bulge. Climb through this, traversing right on an easy ramp and then straight up past a bolt to a hanging belay (medium to large cams) at a horizontal crack.
P3: 5.9+, ~75ft. Pull through steep face above on massive delicate chicken heads for about 15 ft. Campus/mantle out left around arête to gain a small stance. Climb the shallow right facing corner above which is protected by gear and two bolts. Belay on ledge above using small cams in a crack left of a bush.
P4: 5th class, 40ft. To gain summit, climb unprotected 5.easy slab above using good edges. If the second feels uncomfortable soloing up behind the leader, a belay could be built on the backside of the summit in a shallow horizontal crack with a couple large cams. The rap bolts could potentially be used as an optional anchor, although the bolts are placed far back.
Location
Ghost Dome
Protection
Protection: One single 60m rope. Double set of cams .5 to #2 Camalot. One each blue TCU, yellow TCU, .4, #3 and #4 Camalot. Stoppers.