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Peak Mountain 3

Phaethon

FA Skyeler Congdon- onsight free solo
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Description

"Suppose I give you the chariot: what will you do? Will you be able to confront the whirling poles, and prevent the reeling vault of heaven from sweeping you away?" - Ovid

P1: Climb the obvious, R-facing corner to a ledge (5.7). On the FA, I actually climbed 10 or so feet to the right of the corner for the first 30 feet before getting into the corner (no pro). Optional belay at ledge or continue up short chimney to 5.5 R face or right to a crack aiming for large roof.

P2 Climb up black rock in corner up to roof on jugs. Pull roof on the left (5.8) into thin hands and fingers. Follow striking twin cracks, "The Chariot Tracks," across the blank face, left for 40 feet then straight up to nice ledge. Belay.

Climb 50 feet of 4th class to top.

Location

West Face of Upper Sun Tower. Hike 100 yards NW beyond the notch and look for obvious black and tan corner. Can't miss it. The Chariot Tracks cannot be seen from the base of the route as they face due North.

Walk off to the North, then West back to your packs. Stay close to cliff once down for easiest path of descent.

Protection

Standard rack. Bring a wire brush to clean lichen out of second pitch twin cracks.