Words On Fire

Perhaps this is the best boulder problem in the state.

Begin standing on a huge, jug flake. Move up into a good sloper, and deadpoint to a perfect, incut slash. Heel hook, and move into a good fingertip rail, then work up to a final show stopper move to a jug at the lip, then top out fairly easily on knobs.

The sequence, while no harder than V5, requires incredible mental strength and no mistakes to complete, making it as serious as any highball anywhere. Words On Fire deserves to be recognized as one true world class problem and is sure to have an occasional ascent by the bold.

The Main Attraction Boulder has 4-5 potential lines. By far, the two best are the ones on the absolutely incredible overhang over the horrendous slab. Words On Fire is the right of the two, starting in a jug flake and heading straight up out the 65° overhang. Though the climb is only about 15 feet long, it’s about 25 feet from the lip to the ground - which is a 50° slab.

Pads held on by a #5 Cam and a spotter also on belay.