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Peak Mountain 3

North Face Jam Crack

FA Paul Fry, Joe Bierek, & Fred Hammerquist 1971
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

With a good scrubbing this route might actually be reasonably fun, when I got on it a few years ago it was a somewhat miserable experience due to  excessive moss and our under estimation of daylight. If you have any interest in climbing this I would suggest bringing a brush as we were shut down on a mantel move which was completely covered in moss (a recurring theme of menagerie routes)

P1: Start on a large detached flake. Clip a bolt and begin climbing up a rightward traversing crack to a belay ledge with a 1/4'' button head bolt. Build a gear belay. P2: Traverse up and left on a low angle mossy ramp with no opportunity for pro till you reach an old looking piton. Clip the piton (it held my buddy's fall) and funk your way to the base of an overhanging jam crack and finish the route up that or do a somewhat unprotected traverse left to the anchor for regular north face.

Disclaimer I didn't finish up the jam crack so I don't know whether there is an anchor at the top or a safe way to get to the regular north face anchor.

Descent: rappel from regular north face anchor.

Location

The start is on the large detached flake 15 feet right of the Regular North Face route

Protection

Nuts and cams to 3" a wire brush would might also be a good idea.


Routes in Rooster Rock