- Edit (TBD)
Description
Shares the same start as
Red Devil
(5.12b).
Boulder start (or jump for a jug) underneath the roof, climb huecos until you reach a sloper undercling, From here reach the well-chalked jug and a fingerlock, pull the lip and stand up to a small undercling, reach up to the bigger undercling and then go left to good holds.
This is essentially where you leave
Red Devil
, moving left entails some strenuous core movement, continue up and left with balancy lieback moves to another fingerlock and twistlock into a good flake, move right to crimpers until you can reach the leftmost sidepull of
Red Devil
, creep upwards on the occasional good hold and a bunch of nothing to the anchor.
A better route than
Red Devil
. A bit longer with much better movement, plus you have to do the best/crux moves of both routes.
Location
Left of
Espresso
in the middle of the roof
Protection
4 chain draws, 1 hanger to 2 chains with wiregate carabiners at the anchor.
Routes in Raven Rocks North Face "Power Block" Area
- 4You Don't Know Jack5.12cSport