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Peak Mountain 3

You Don't Know Jack

FA Jack Marshall
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Shares the same start as

Red Devil

(5.12b).

Boulder start (or jump for a jug) underneath the roof, climb huecos until you reach a sloper undercling, From here reach the well-chalked jug and a fingerlock, pull the lip and stand up to a small undercling, reach up to the bigger undercling and then go left to good holds.

This is essentially where you leave

Red Devil

, moving left entails some strenuous core movement, continue up and left with balancy lieback moves to another fingerlock and twistlock into a good flake, move right to crimpers until you can reach the leftmost sidepull of

Red Devil

, creep upwards on the occasional good hold and a bunch of nothing to the anchor.

A better route than

Red Devil

. A bit longer with much better movement, plus you have to do the best/crux moves of both routes.

Location

Left of

Espresso

in the middle of the roof

Protection

4 chain draws, 1 hanger to 2 chains with wiregate carabiners at the anchor.