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Peak Mountain 3

The Beaver

FA 16 Sept 2014, Ben Boykin/Robert Kelman
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is on the Southwest Buttress of Foreign Territory (left-hand side of FT's little canyon area), directly above the Turtle Rock Trail.

After a scramble (easiest from the left) to the spacious belay ledge, begin slightly lower & sidle into the opening moves, placing small/medium gear as you wallow deeper, taking care not to break the delicate ribs beneath your feet. Move through the chimney-like gash to the crux finger crack. Surmount the chockstone to the final hand-crack finish (right side) onto a shelf. Gear belay.

Descent: one can maneuver to the

Topside the Daisies

anchor to the climber's right of the exit chimney, or discover a walk-off toward the North.

Likely this route has been climbed before.

Location

Approach: park at the lower Central Area parking lot, and hike in from the West trailhead of the Turtle Rock trail. Continue 50 yards past

Holy Saturday

, and the Southwest Buttress of Foreign Territory will be to your immediate right.

Trivia: named for an exclamation during an early foray. "

Look

," said Squeak, pointing to the pond across the trail, "

a beaver....

"

Protection

Standard Vedauwoo rack: a few smallish nuts and a wide assortment of tiny-ish to biggish cams.