- Edit (TBD)
Description
Lots and lots of beaking on thin cracks leading to a system of fingers to hands to fists to OW to chimney that ends in an awesome cave before the final pitch to the summit.
Rack:
Beaks: 8 large, 8 medium, 6 small
Arrows: a few small
Blades: a few thin
Angles: 1 each #1-2
Heads: 1-2 each #2 and #3
Rivet Hanger
Camhooks
Hooks 2 each Grappling and Cliffhanger
Nuts: 1 set
Cams:
3 each 0.3"-4.5"
2 each 6",
1
optional
8"
Pitch 1: A2: 80’
of thin nailing to two bolt anchor below a small roof. Anchor visible from the base of the route.
Pitch 2: A2+: 120’
of thin nailing continuing up the continuously thin feature
Pitch 3: A2+: 200’
move right and down from the belay to move around a corner on easy free moves to a full rope length of thin to wide climbing finishing with an intricate and discontinuous beak system to reach the belay in the center of the wall.
Pitch 4: A2: 120’
Move right from the belay to reach a rivet via beaks in a bottoming and loose crack, tension around a corner to establish yourself on hooks to make a traverse (protectable with hidden arrow placements) to a laser-cut arrow corner that allows you to reach over to a perfect hand crack on the opposite wall. Follow this to a slanting ledge before moving through a gently overhanging and loose groove to anchor.
Pitch 5: A1: 200’
Continue up dirty climbing through a few ledges, carefully avoiding a precarious stack of loose blocks towards the top of the pitch.
Pitch 6: A2+: 120’
Move left to establish yourself in a left-facing corner system taking cams, thin pitons, and heads to a hooking traverse along a flake system to the anchors.
Pitch 7: 5.7 C1: 130’
of steep hands to fist before establishing yourself in a chimney system requiring mandatory free climbing to reach the belay cave at the end of the pitch.
Pitch 8: C1: 110’
Move to back of the cave and climb out the back up easy aid to blocky climbing to the anchors.
Write Up of Climb:
failfalling.com/ClimbingBlo…
!
Location
Left front side of Ribbon Falls Amphitheater. Starts a few feet to the right of the bushes. First anchors are visible 80' up under a small rooflet
Protection
All anchors are two 3.8" bolts. Route anchors are equipped with stainless rap rings and dedicated rap anchors for an easy highway back to the ground.